The snack pastime green tea locally called Atayaa is a tea that offers an array of unique taste sensations, including astringency, bitterness and full-bodied flavour (ITO EN Global, nd, cited in https://www.itoen-global.com/allabout_greentea/components_benefit.html).
In this article we delve into the origin, chemical/mineral compositions, health implications and the green tea culture in The Gambia, while tying it to the current situation of the Covid-19 pandemic and how it has affected such an inherent sub-culture.
The green tea is said to have originated from the South East Asia, more especially from the People’s Republic of China but like a charm it is, as described by a prominent Gambian historian, it has permeated the rest of the world including West Africa, at a magnetic scale.
If you think green tea is just a mere addictive snack pastime with no medical values, think again. Research has shown that green tea has many different chemical elements and minerals with a diverse range of effects, and here is a highlight of some:
Vitamins have various effects on the human body. Although vitamins are essential nutrients, they cannot be produced within the body. Regularly drinking green tea, which is full of vitamins, is good for your health.
Vitamins, along with saccharides, lipids, proteins and minerals, are one of the five primary nutrients used by the body. Green tea is known for having more vitamins in higher concentrations than other foods, and this fact alone makes tea a superior beverage. Many types of oolong (partially fermented tea) and black tea contain few vitamins, with vitamin c and other vitamins mostly lost during the production process.
Vitamin b2 is essential for regular development. A deficiency in vitamin b2 can result in cracked and red lips and inflammation of the mouth and tongue. One hundred grams of sencha includes around 1.4mg of vitamin b2, more than 4 times that of parsley, spinach and jew's marrow, which have some of the highest concentrations among foods.
Vitamin c is a necessary nutrient in the production of collagen. Vitamin c deficiency results in lost formation of collagen fibers, weakening vascular walls and causing scurvy. Vitamin c also acts as an antioxidant and is believed to play an important role in the prevention of lifestyle-related diseases such as cancer. Sencha contains the most vitamin c of any tea, around 1.5 times that of red peppers, which have one of the highest concentrations among vegetables. In contrast, oolong tea contains very little vitamin c and black tea contains none at all.
The nutrient folic acid assists in the formation of red blood cells, and pregnant mothers are recommended to take it as it acts to prevent the onset of fetal neural tube defects (ntd). Its relationship to the prevention of arterial sclerosis, colon cancer, dementia and alzheimer's disease is also becoming clear, making it the most studied vitamin in recent years. Green tea (matcha and sencha) contains more than five times the folic acid of spinach or parsley, and around the same amount as dried seaweed, which has one of the highest concentrations of any food. Black tea contains only a small amount of folic acid.
Β-carotene is absorbed through the intestinal walls and is then converted mainly by the liver to vitamin A as necessary, in effect acting as the precursor of vitamin A (pro-vitamin A). Vitamin A aids in the maintenance of night vision, and among teas B-carotene is found in particularly high quantities in matcha, which contains five times the B-carotene of carrots.
Vitamin e has been shown to act as an antioxidant that works to protect lipids within the body from oxidizing. Cells are made up of fat-soluble and water-soluble parts, and vitamin e works in the fat-soluble part of the cell. Sencha contains around 32 times the vitamin e found in spinach and around two times that found in chili peppers, and hardly any foods have it in higher concentration. However, as vitamin e does not dissolve in water, it is best taken through powdered green tea or matcha.
Tea is effective in preventing tooth decay and high blood pressure, as well as bad breath and other health problems. This is due to the different components found in tea.
Saponins are found in all teas, and result in the frothing seen in teas like matcha. Tea leaves contain around 0.1% saponins, which give it its strong bitterness and astringency. Saponins have anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergy properties and have been shown to lower blood pressure and prevent obesity and influenza (according to studies by the ito en central research centre).
Fluorine is found in large quantities in the plant camellia japonica, and in general mature leaves contain more fluorine than younger leaves, with bancha containing the most fluorine among teas. It forms the acid-resistant outer layer on the teeth's surface and is effective in preventing cavities.
Minerals (potassium, calcium, phosphorus, manganese, etc.)
Minerals play an important role as bodily regulators. Tea contains around 5-7% minerals, mainly potassium (k), calcium (ca), phosphorus (p), and magnesium (mg), as well as small quantities of manganese (mn), zinc (zn) and copper (cu).
Catechins are a type of polyphenol and are the main astringency component in green tea, long known as tannins. Catechin was first isolated from the Indian plant extract catechu (from the plant acacia catechu, a tree of the fabaceae family, acacia genus), from which it derives its name. Tea catechin was first isolated by Dr Michiyo tsujimura in 1929 at Riken (the Institute of Physical and Chemical Research) in Japan.
In addition, during the manufacturing process for tea beverages, owing to heat processing, some Catechins change form.
Drinking tea when tired from work or study can make a person feel refreshed. This is an effect of caffeine, which is present in tea. Although there is not a great difference in caffeine content depending on the period in which the tea is picked, such as between ichibancha and nibancha, similar to catechin and amino acid (theanine), there is a higher caffeine content in young shoots and mature leaves tend to contain less.
Among teas that have been roasted at high temperature, such as hojicha, the caffeine is sublimated (changed directly from a solid to a gaseous state) and is said to decrease.
The main effects of caffeine include increased alertness and a mild diuretic effect. Since caffeine has a stimulant effect on the central nervous system (cns), it can ward off drowsiness and increase the capacity for mental or physical labor. If one consumes caffeine and then does a moderate amount of physical exercise, before the muscles' internal energy source (glucose or glycogen) is used, there is a phenomenon whereby fat is used as an energy source, thereby helping enhance stamina. Furthermore, tea is said to be effective for preventing hangovers. This is also an effect of caffeine, whereby alcohol is metabolized more rapidly. Historically, it is thought that tea has been adopted as a preferred drink by humans owing to the refreshing effects from caffeine. Amino acid (theanine).
Tea has unique characteristics of full-bodied, rich flavor (umami) and sweetness. Simultaneously, it also has a relaxing effect. A type of amino acid called theanine is largely responsible for these characteristics.
Amino acids are the component in tea that contributes full-bodied flavour and sweetness. Of these amino acids, more than 60% are theanine, which is unique to tea. Theanine has a structure similar to that of glutamine, with its particular trait being a refined, rich flavour and sweetness. Amino acids other than theanine present in tea leave include glutamine, asparagine, arginine and serine.
Theanine is present in the tea plant (camellia sinensis), other camellia and sasanqua but does not occur in any other plants. The theanine content of ichibancha is higher than nibancha, and even within ichibancha, the theanine content of younger shoots is higher. In mature leaves, the theanine level drops away dramatically. If tea is grown using cover culture (shaded from sunlight), as is the case with gyokuro, the generation of catechins from amino acids is suppressed, resulting in a high theanine content in the tea leaves. Consequently, shincha and gyokuro have a rich, full-bodied flavor (umami), whereas bancha has a much lighter flavor.
The caffeine content of infused tea beverage is approximately 0.01-0.02%. This translates to approximately 15-30mg of caffeine per cup of tea consumed. Although this amount of caffeine should result in a very strong stimulant effect, in fact, the stimulant effect is quite gentle. The reason for this is that theanine acts to limit the stimulant effect of caffeine. Thanks to this property, a potentially dramatic stimulant effect is instead transformed into a moderate effect. This may be regarded as one of the excellent natural attributes of tea.
In experiments on animals, theanine has shown properties for suppressing high blood pressure and protecting central nervous system cells. Measurements of the brain waves of people who have consumed theanine reveal that there is an increase in α-waves (according to research by the ito en central research institute), which are produced particularly when a person is in a relaxed state (ITO EN Global, nd, cited in: https://www.itoen-global.com/allabout_greentea/components_benefit.html).
Green tea was said to have first steeped in 2737 BC during the reign of Emperor Shennong – a mythical sage and a popular figure in the mythology of Chinese agriculture and medicine.
The use of tea leaves probably first originated in the southwest area of China more than 3,000 years ago, and was likely initially used by people just for chewing and eating, in just the same way that coffee was first used by people eating the beans directly in Ethiopia (Teavivre, nd, cited in https://www.teavivre.com/info/green-tea-history.html).
Hassoum Ceesay is a writer, historian and acting Director of the National Centre for Arts and Culture. Speaking to Gambia Daily, Ceesay affirmed that the snack pastime green tea is a Chinese tea and that the Chinese people have high regard for their health and immune system.
However, he traced the root of Atayaa culture in the Gambia to the mid-1940s when the Mauritanian traders flux into the country through Senegal. This, he noted was enhanced by easing of restrictions on movement right after the second world war. “Atayaa is a cultural baggage brought from North Africa into The Gambia in the 1940s. It has gained tractions from the people due to its taste sensations; thus, it is a national pastime, a ritual and a tea culture that has a huge connection in the social life of the people and a norm in the Gambian hospitality,” Ceesay asserted.
More on the socio-cultural attachment to the green tea, the renowned Gambian historian says it brings unity, enhance dialogue in the family, and parents to children relationship, as well as an economic indicator because it contributes to the GDP of The Gambia through customs revenue.
He opined that the green tea is now graduating from a culture to a ritual for the fact that most people cannot do without it. He added that the tea has a very strong Islamic heritage in Mauritania.
Mr Ceesay recalled when there were only two varieties of ‘Atayaa’ called ‘Mbass’ and ‘Gunpowder’. He said ‘Mbass’ was the lighter green tea famous with women while ‘Gunpowder’ was the stronger one popular with men.
Dr Abubacarr Jagne, a physician, said most people become addicted to Atayaa due to the caffeine and other components present in. However, it is obvious that the social setting of it; its appealing cultural value, do contribute to addiction. People do complain of headache, body pain, laziness, anxiety and the desire to fall asleep if they do not have a sip of it.
On the different ways of preparing the tea, Ceesay said China does it a little different from Gambia. “China’s healthy because hot water is boiled separately before the tea leaf is inserted to wait for three (3) minutes before they could finally put in the two cubes brown sugar to be consumed. This is unlike how it is in Gambia where everything is boiled together and is foam. Asked the right way to cook it Mr Ceesay responds: “So long the context is almost the same and it brings people together at a ‘straza’.
Lamin Dibba, a resident of Bakoteh says: “I have been consuming Atayaa for many years. My step-mother used to engage me to brew the green tea at her leisure time”. He confessed that he has never missed a day to brew the green tea, and that he feels lazy if he does not drink it.
He went on: “It adds value to my work. I have never done research about the health implications of drinking Atayaa but I do know too much sugar consumption can lead to health complications and diseases like diabetes. As a result I try to minimise my sugar intake”.
Dibba advised people who drink Atayaa to engage in regular exercise to minimise the risks associated to high sugar consumption.
Maimuna Manneh says she experiences headache and laziness if she doesn’t drink Atayaa.
For Lamin Leigh drinking Atayaa is a habbit that refuses to die.
The Food Safety and Quality Authority (FSQA) is the body tasked with the mandate to look into quality matters around food/feeds coming into the country. Sanna Jawara, Director of FSQA revealed that they have inspectors at the seaport who verify quality of imported food.
He explained that green tea being imported into the country has to come with a health certificate from country of origin, that should be able to indicate what quality and whether it is fit for human consumption. Before food is sent to the market, he added, it is tested and verified. “Sometimes we go further for the organoleptic inspection; whereby we look into the product closely to see whether it is safe. One can determine basic food quality food by looking at it at physically; but is a different situation at Food Safety, as we have a scientific directorate responsible for taking samples of food products for testing. Normally this method of organoleptic is applied on suspicious foods, whose qualities are verified through a laboratory analysis,’’ he explained.
The Atayaa business is no doubt a lucrative venture for its traders due to the high demand in Gambia. For example, according to the Trade ministry of The Gambia, in 2018 a total of 4,021 metric tons of green tea was imported into the country, while in 2019 a total of 5,333 metric tons was imported.
Alagie Sarr, green tea importer in Banjul said Atayaa said when it comes to the variety they import, it is the customers that select what varieties they want and needed for their various selling points. He however noted that it is the Food Safety and Quality Authority that determines the quality and certify as fit for market consumption.
Both Ousman Narr, and Alieu Jarju, affirm that demand on a particular variety or brand of green tea determines the volume of importation.
The corona virus pandemic has shaken the very foundation of our socio-economic and to some extent even the political order of the world, as we know it, perhaps in about a century.
Stopping the virus from its wild spread has meant putting some drastic and uncomfortable measures that disrupt routines including some of our inherent traditional and cultural practices. One of such is our habit of sharing the same utensils when it comes to eating and drinking. The corona virus prevention and containment measures require physical distancing and the suspension of the habit of eating or drinking from one cup or bowl. This means the charm or the foundational essence of the Attaya culture is being disrupted; since an essential element of it is bringing people together to share; whether at a ‘Straza’ or at home.
Director Jawara of FSQA indicated that although Covid-19 is not a food borne disease, it can spread by eating with shared materials. People have to observe certain hygienic practices when drinking Atayaa. The droplets of someone who coughs and uses the same cuplet as another person may result in transmission if one of them is already infected”.
He informed that ‘Atayaa’ is one thing of health disturbances and again adding too much of sugar in it can also be another disturb, giving that Covid 19 is not a food burn disease because is not transmitted through food thus people have to observe certain hygienic practices in drinking atayaa. "the droplets of someone who coughs and use the same cup-lets to serve other is totally not hygiene and people should be conscious to their health".
He went on: it is an advice from health experts especially in these days of Covid-19 that people should not share cup-lets when brewing the Atayaa tea, the social distancing, and physical distancing but on the other hand people are always together to brewing the green tea and that is very social. However, this have frightened the health experts regarding the global pandemic and therefore, there is the need to exercise care and caution.
He informed that ‘Atayaa’ is one thing of health disturbances and again adding too much of sugar in it can also be another disturb, giving that Covid 19 is not a food burn.
“The culture signifies togetherness, close interactions and drinking from the same cup-lets,” he said, adding that this may also promote the spread of other diseases including tuberculosis.
Commenting on the sugar content in green tea Dr Jagne said sugar consumption in the country is worrisome, saying it can lead to diabetes. “6 to 8% of elderly are diabetics and it is more common in the rural area than the urban areas in The Gambia”.
The physician also recommends regular physical exercise and avoidance of sharing the same cup-lets especially during this Covid-19 moment.
Further explaining content Dr Jagne intimated that sugar is not easily metabolised and is later converted to fat and kept in the body. This he said can potentially lead to diabetes.
He however intimated that sedentary with too much of oily food consumption could lead to obesity, hypertension, and hyper-cholesterol.